Turning Leftovers Into a Comfort Dish

‘Tis the season for cooking, eating large, and holiday parties. We went through 10 pounds of potatoes this past weekend for Hanukah latkes, (my favorite recipe is Joan Nathan’s crispy potato pancake). The eaters of all ages declared them delicious, but still, I felt like I was bathed in oil by the end of the frying session. So when Sunday dinner rolled around, I was looking for an antidote to the latke, something quick and slightly more healthy.

Enter ribollita, a hearty Italian vegetable soup eaten over torn pieces of stale bread. I find ribollita incredibly satisfying in the colder months, and a fantastic way to both eat your vegetables and clean out the bits of leftovers in the fridge. I treat it more like a concept than a recipe, and it tastes different every time. You can use more or less of your favorite veggies, or replace the veggies with something you like more (or happen to have on hand). Red wine, beef broth, and more tomatoes makes for a heartier soup, while white wine and chicken broth makes for lighter fare. This last time I made it, I didn’t have fennel but I had leftover chicken meat in the fridge, which I added with great results. Ribollita is a blank canvas, so paint away.

My Ribollita
Serves 4 (with some leftover for one or two lunches)

4 slices of bacon or pancetta, sliced into ½ inch pieces
3 carrots, peeled
3 celery stalks
1-2 onions
2 cloves garlic
½ head cabbage (or 1 bunch kale or Swiss chard)
1 potato (optional)
1 fennel bulb (optional)
3-4 cups broth (chicken or beef)
1/2-1 cup wine (red or white)
1 14.5 oz. can diced tomatoes (or fire roasted)
1 14.5 oz. can cannellini beans
1 cup cut up chicken (very optional)
2 t. oregano
1 bay leaf
1 sprig rosemary
4 thick slices of good bread
salt and pepper to taste
Finishers: balsamic dressing, olive oil, and/or parmesan

Using a large soup pot or Dutch oven, cook bacon on medium heat until browned, 5-6 minutes. While bacon is cooking, cut carrots, celery, onion cabbage and optional vegetables into bite sized pieces. When bacon is browned, add all vegetables and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Mince garlic and add it to the pot, cooking and stirring one minute more.

Add broth, wine, tomatoes and spices to the pot. If the vegetables are not covered by liquid, add more broth/wine until they are covered. Cover pot and simmer gently until veggies are cooked through but not mushy, about 30 minutes. Add beans and cook a few minutes more. Taste for salt and pepper and add to taste. At this point the soup can be held until it is time to eat.

Toast bread until golden but not browned. Rip one piece of toast into each bowl, then ladle soup on top of the bread. Finish with grated parmesan, a splash of balsamic and extra virgin olive oil. Eat immediately!

A Reflective Thanksgiving

Thanksgiving is just around the corner, and I for one am excited. Many holidays and celebrations have special foods attached to them, but Thanksgiving is a holiday about food. About the harvest specifically, and taking the time to appreciate what our farmers grow for us (or we grow ourselves). And everyone has their recipes they love, handed down from relatives and friends. So I’m not going to share my favorite Thanksgiving recipes (although I do make the best cranberry sauce), since chances are you won’t use them anyway.

But I will say this. Somewhere along the way, this holiday has transformed into a holiday of excess of calories and dishes, and that troubles me. In some ways, this display of conspicuous consumption goes hand in hand with a general trend our society, which is that amidst a shocking amount of food waste there are still hungry families in the country. Think about this: the average American wastes well over 200 pounds of food each year, even though more than 17 million American households struggle to feed themselves. Translation: one in five children in the US today struggle with hunger. And those kids are hungry even though about 40 percent of food produced in the US today does not get eaten.

There are things we can all do on both sides of this equation. We can donate food to the Arlington Food Pantry, and support organizations like Lovin’ Spoonfuls and Share Our Strength. We can applaud and ensure the government’s continuing role in providing programs like Food Stamps and school meal programs, which puts food directly on the plate of hungry people facing challenging economic times.

We can also do our part to reduce our own food waste. We can cook at home more, eat or freeze leftovers, order less at restaurants, and not be tempted to buy those five heads of pre-packaged lettuce at Costco just because they are inexpensive (but eventually two will end up in the trash). Freeze ripe fruit for smoothies. Turn stale bread into breadcrumbs. Use chicken bones to make soup.

And for Thanksgiving, we can prepare a beautiful meal with the spirit of celebration in mind, rather than opulence, and be thankful for what is on the table.

Happy Harvest.

Apples = Fall In New England

The fall is always a busy time for me, most especially because it’s an intense time for local food. The Massachusetts harvest is in full swing, and I have been feeling the pressure to pick, freeze and can as much local produce as possible before the frost sets in. I have a special shout out for this year’s raspberries. I am sheepish to admit that this is the first year I made my way to the Wright Locke Farm, just over the Arlington line in Winchester, to pick their amazing raspberries. My jam was so yummy I returned for a second day of picking.

But what is New England without apples? While I remember picking apples in Wisconsin as a kid, I connect apples with this part of the country. And not just because Johnny Appleseed was born in Leominster (check out the fascinating profile of the hard cider-making apple profligator in Michael Pollan’s The Botany of Desire). The apple orchard defines the New England landscape. For a few years I've gone to Westward Orchards in Harvard, and picked from their selection of McIntosh, Cortlands, Empires and Macouns.

It's almost impossible to pick too many apples, since they last a long time in a cool dark place. In my house, though, a half-bushel disappears in a matter of weeks. If we aren't eating them straight up in lunches, we are baking them one way or another. This year my children took charge, and each developed their own apple recipe. They are simple, but simple is best when it comes to working with fresh local produce picked at the height of the season. Both apple dishes were so yummy, we ate everything before I had a chance to snap a photo.

Perfectly Appl-y Applesauce
cooked by my son, adapted from our friend Gus

About 12 apples, preferably more than one variety
2-3 T. Brown sugar
1/2 to 1 t. Cinnamon
1/2 t. Kosher salt

Peel apples if desired, then core and slice apples into about 10 slices. While you are working, place the apples already sliced into a bowl of water with half of a lemon in it to keep apples from browning.
Drain applies and add to a saucepan.

Cook on low heat until softened, about 20 minutes. If the apples appear dry after 10 minutes or so, add about a 1/4 cup of water. Once soft, gently mash the apples with a fork or potato masher. It's okay to leave a few chunks. Add 2 tablespoons of brown sugar, 1/2 teaspoon of cinnamon and the salt. Taste, and add more sugar or cinnamon if desired. Best served warm.

This sauce will keep in the refrigerator for two weeks or in the freezer for 6 months.

Apple Crisp 
Serves 8, cooked by my daughter

About 8 apples
1 stick (8 T.) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 c. brown sugar
2/3 c. flour
2 c. rolled oats
1/2 t. Kosher salt

Butter 8 6 oz. ramekins (or to kick up the adorable factor, use 8 oz. wide mouth mason jars, or an 8 x 8 pan). Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

In a bowl, measure the butter, sugar, flour, oats, and salt. Using your hand (or a spoon if you don't like getting your hands dirty), cream ingredients together until the dry ingredients are coated by the butter.
Peel and core the apples. Cut apples into thick slices, then cut the slices into 3 bite size chunks. While you are working, place the apples already sliced into a bowl of water with half of a lemon in it to keep apples from browning.

Drain the apples, and divide among the ramekins. Place the crumble on top of each. Don’t worry if they are a bit full because the apples shrink during cooking.

Place ramekins on a sheet pan and bake until apples are soft and bubbly, about 30 minutes. Serve warm with whipped cream or ice cream (or both, as we did).